1) The playing area consists of the court and a safety space around it measuring 10 feet in each direction. (50' x 80') (If you don't have this space, smaller courts can be built, call for recommendations). The space above the playing area should be free of obstructions. The playing area should be level and consist of good quality sand to a thickness which prevents players from contacting the underlying surface.
2) Dimensions of the court are 60 feet by 30 feet and are measured from the outer edge of the boundary lines. The boundary lines should be made of brightly colored tape or rope having similar characteristics (Note: Ropes can sometimes leave burns if you contact them accidentally, thick nylon tape is what is recommended and what the professionals use). (For safety reasons we recommend removing the lines at night to protect people from tripping and injuring themselves).
3) The plane of the net serves as an invisible center line of the court, dividing it into two halves.
4) Poles supporting the volleyball net should be made of galvanized metal, treated wood (6 x 6's or larger are preferred with sanded edges, 4 x 4's tend to bend too much) or other material that will withstand tension and not bend or break when stressed. It is also a good idea to pad the poles to protect players using your court.
5) Supports should be approximately 12-16 feet long and buried at least 3 feet deep. They don't have to be cemented in place but should be. Supports should be free of hazardous protrusions. If you use guy wires, they should be made of bright colors or padded to prevent injury to players. All anchors for guy wires and boundary lines should be buried at least 6-8 inches under the surface of the sand and free of sharp edges.
6) The court area should be excavated to a three-foot depth with a drainage ditch leading away from the lowest point of the court. Perforated drainage pipe should be laid across the court with one end capped and the other open to the drainage ditch. Proper drainage is extremely important, or you could find yourself playing in a giant mud puddle. (Even if the court is built above ground, sand will still retain water!)
7) Depending on how well your soil drains overlay the court area with a one-foot thickness of smooth rounded gravel. Above the gravel place burlap or landscape fabric to prevent sand from washing through into the base gravel. Deposit one-to-two feet of beach sand or washed masonry sand over the area and rake level. The more washed the sand is the less dusty it will be. (When testing sand for purchase wear shorts and test the sand in both dry and wet conditions by kneeling down onto it knees first, "no scrapes, no problem," scrapes, scrap it and keep shopping.)
Your budget may dictate the depth of sand used but keep in mind if you go with a lesser depth, plan on raking back sand from the middle of your "dished out court" to the sides about once a week or more (depending on how often the court is used).
Professional Outdoor Standards with Easy Adjust Hardware:
Set includes all moveable heavy duty hardware, which can be adjusted with Allen key for any net height and other games; badminton, tennis.
- Moveable high strength winch with non-spring loaded locking mechanism
- Moveable open ended eye hooks
- Moveable high strength pulley
- Single point adjustment, no ladder or chair needed.
- Stainless Steel set screws
- (Perfect for sand courts and prolonged outdoor use. )
- Two 3.5 inch O.D. by 12-foot long poles (longer poles available, call for pricing) schedule 40 galvanized steel posts.
- Top internal drive caps for poles.
- Sleeves available (call for pricing)
Posts can be permanently placed in the ground or you can purchase the optional ground sleeves for easy removal.